My C1 125 exec is for sale, as a rolling chassis and complete original body work. The engine runs and sounds ok but the oil light comes on and stays on, and i am no longer confident in the bike, which is a shame. i have tried another oil switch but light still comes on. I do not have the skills to strip the engine .
If any one has a bike with a good engine but the body work / chassis needs attention, this is the bike for you.
13.5k miles, top box , some spares (pads) etc included, and 12v socket that actually works!!
Based in mid suffolk.
Bike will need collecting in a van or the like, would not wish to chance it being ridden......
If you are interested , please contact me
Thanks again Rocksteady. You mentioned some photos , which would be a great help to me, if you can post them. Thanks again Kmac
Hi Rocksteady, thanks for you reply. I have a £10 ebay kit in stock, would this be enough or do i need more. I have seen the post from HelmetHair , it mentions special grease , where do i find the spec / supply of this and some bigger seals.
All of this is situated behind the black casing on the right of the engine??? Can this be done insitu or does the engine come out ?
Thanks all and stay safe
Thanks for you help and advise previously. My bike is now up and running , rear pads were not too bad on stripping so they will last a good while longer. Just need to MOT it (difficult at this point in time ) but should be good to go.
The only fly in the ointment is when it is ticking over, a small amount of coolant is running down the block by the oil filter and dripping on the exhaust. I have had the cams out again and rechecked the torque settings on the head bolts and allen bolts therein. These were all ok. I have changed the head and base gaskets last time and cannot see where the leak is coming from. The leak is small but significant and needs sorting.
Has any one any ideas as i so want to get this done so i can ride it again without worrying that it will fail.
Thankyou in advance
Hi all , thanks for your replies, all support gratefully received. After panic subsiding, yes there was enough to get the wheel out so that is done, just leaves main bolt removal to drop the engine out. Still need to get the pin out of the caliper as it does need new pads Whilst the wheel is off is there anything else to grease / lube/ adjust ??
Hi aware. thanks for your reply. No the pads are free on the pin and move easily. I just cannot get the pin out of the caliper to remove the pads etc. I just have this and then the main (long) bolt underneath to remove then the engine will be out ..... Thanks for your help.
Hi rockstedy, thanks for your reply.
How do you remove the whole ? do i disconnect and drain the brake system at the caliper, because even with the pads out, would there be enough clearance to remove the disc/ wheel ? with the large 6 sided nut removed do i just slide the wheel off, what must i watch out for on dismantle and refit? Sorry if this seems vague but all help is appreciated.
........Well that will teach me!! Head gasket finally expired (in the garage luckily so did not seize....) So engine out, easy according to some posts on here. All going well until i try to remove the rear pads / caliper to get the wheel off. The pad pin will not knock out ( from exhaust side to wheel if it is the same principal as the front) WD40 applied , but does anyone have any tips to help remove the caliper/ wheel assy if i cannot remove it. How can you detach the caliper from the carrier , if that is possible???
Confirmed the injector leaking air with brake cleaner, thankyou. I have removed the injector and cleaned the big seal , when refitting ,it does not seem to go right to the bottom (i.e 2mm sticking up over the housing) Is this right, as it does not seem very tight on the injector. I have tried an additional O ring seal on the bottom of the injector seat and refitted , but to no avail.
Also i have noticed that the injector swivels in it's housing when the injector rail is correctly fitted (could not refit the electrical plug, until i worked it out), is this right as well ?
Is there a seal at the top which needs replacing? What seals are available, i read on here that the big seal is not available separately ??
Had a new plug couple of days ago, and always restarts straight away after cutting out. Compression OK and valve clearences spot on.
IS there an easy check for the cooling fan, as I have not heard it come on once whilst I have been trying to sort this out , the fan turns by hand so not seized.
My thanks to you all for your help
Got myself a compression tester and tested the engine twice ( from cold) turned engine over for approx 10 secs. each time. Results were 13 bar and 14 bar respectively. Bizarrely the engine has stopped pumping coolant everywhere but i can still get air out of the bleed screw. How do i know when the coolant is full as when i topped the rad up to bottom of neck (as per workshop manual) refitted the cap and turned it over , it flowed a lot into the expansion tank . i have drained this off and will try again tomorrow. road test seems ok but cuts out at junctions ( restarts on the button , got a new plug in today)
Any ideas ......?
The timing chain etc were ok when I had the camshafts off to do the valve clearances ( the original fault , ironically) I do have a waterpump kit here ,so will do that at the same time
Thanks Andrew, will let you know how i get on.
Thanks. will price it accordingly. The exhaust will come off easy enough as been off recently. I have torque wrenches etc. My only concern is the condition of the electrical plugs up by the right seat belt catch area (to starter etc, i think)
Anything else to check whilst it is on the bench? What work required to rekit the waterpump ??
Many thanks kmac
Thanks for your replies, seems like the head gasket it is then. Will locate a compression tester and update once i have tested . When i stated the engine is not whizzing over, i meant that it is turning over normally , not like it has no compression at all (just to clarify).
Do i go genuine with the parts or can someone advise the best place to get the kit, and can it be done in situ or engine out ? is there anything else i should look out for?
Hi all , thanks for your replies.
I suspected head gasket , but there is no smoke from the exhaust, the oil is not contaminated and level correct. Is there another coolant valve or bleed point somewhere that i am not aware of? When turning the engine over it is not whizzing quickly. The coolant light does come on with ignition and self checks. I have taken the plug out and there is no coolant smell (just fuel , because it wont start)
The expansion tank puffs up in time with the metallic click from the rad area (like a lung working - approx once every 30 secs.
Have i bled it properly, is there a more foolproof way of doing it.
If it is headgasket, what sort of job is that as my mechanical skills are ok ( i did the valve clearances , and they are now spot on)
Again, thanks for your time and help .
Morning gents. My first posting, I hope this makes some sense.
I have a 2001 125 exec , it has been SORN for over a year and now it needs to go....It was laid up due to too tight valve clearances , so did not want to burn the valves. These have now been sorted and the bike started on the button.
My problem now is that there is a metallic cracking noise coming from the rad cap area , combined with the expansion tank "puffing up" at the same time.
When removed the rad cap , a load of coolant rushed into the expansion tank ......
I have changed the thermostat as the larger rubber hose facing to the front was not getting hot and that now seems to be working. The temperature warning light does not come on but when i try to start it there is a bubbling sound from the expansion tank. i have not completely drained the system , but i have bled the system as per the manual ie cap off , open the bleed screw by the chain tensioner until no air comes out , and refill to the bottom of the neck, but still it continues to drain into the expansion tank (the rad cap is new too) and i have to drain some out. If i open the bleed screw some air does come out. I have replaced the oil and filter after the valve buckets were replaced , and there is no change in oil level or signs of water contamination.
I am obviously missing something here, and i hope that some one can help me ....
Kind regards kmac
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