You may want to check whether your style is set in your profile / options - try one of the other selections to see if they make it look better (admittedly they are all similar apart from blue)
The move to a new server did not go quite as smoothly due to a drop out of DNS.
However, whilst waiting for the DNS to catch up I took the liberty of upgrading the forum software...
Apologies for the sporadic outages from yesterday (Saturday Morning)
The first issue with leaving the EU seems to be that the main Forum Server (which is based in Germany) is having hardware issues which we have not been able to nail down.
May have to consider moving to another server package - more outages and unknown timescale.
Don't post anything 'important' for the next few days until the "All Clear"
The hosting company seems to have screwed its routing up. I've now moved the domain on to a more (currently) visible IP address.
I have a Pillion kit for sale if wanted :-)
We have a 59 plate Panda Active Eco and are generally happy with it. On the Urban run (15 miles of b-road, dual carriageway and town) it seems to give about 45mpg without the driver being particularly minded to think about economical driving.
It'll quite happily pull over 75mph on a motorway although struggles going uphill. Road noise is quite loud although the narrow tyres seem to be quite good in the recent snow and ice. They're also only provisioned with 4 seatbelts.
The 1.1 FIRE engine is a joy to work on (although I've not mucked about with this car's, I have done so with my son's 10 year old 1.2 Punto which basically has the same lump)
£35pa road tax is quite pleasant too.
Mind you, on the Fiat Forums, there is a lot of weight to the argument to buy the 1.2 model, especially if you are concerned about the uphill pulling ...
Yes, it's still ongoing, I have had little-to-no success merging two test fora - is there any mileage in considering the idea of closing both old fora to new posts and create a new one?
They seem to have done - I can't move them by leaning on them (on their soft setting).
A while ago someone mentioned that Hagon shocks could be rebuilt - after experiencing the feeling of my spine shooting up through the base of my skull, I think my current ones need a refurbish - any thoughts?
Are you waiting for the dashboard lights to go out before firing the ignition. The ECU needs a couple of seconds to take all the sensor readings it requires before it can run at optimum....
Looking at that list, I'd chuck out all the cosmetic stuff, it's no good having a bike that looks great that doesn't run :-)
Get the valves reshimmed, the belt sorted, the pipes fixed and the wheels rebooted (bridgestone hoops fore and aft, no other tyre need apply :-) )
After that, look at the weak link and treat stuff for corrosion (but only the stuff that will fall apart without treatment as opposed to the cosmetics)
>the speedo sensor is when just the speedo doesnt work and its usually when the bearings havent been tapped in properly
How far in should the bearings go? All the way to the ridge?
Replaced mine yesterday and I thought that torquing them up would move them together but I had no speedo for most of my journey this morning and the 'disk' bearing is flush with the hub.
Well, put it this way - the lifter was still not latching after being taken off the bike and held upright in a vice. After sorting out the spindle the latch now works in the same location - and nowt else has been touched.
When I put it all back together then I'll see what needs to be removed to get access to it in situ - suspect the dashboard and the 'n' peace that sits either side of the tunnel (where the nets attach)
The flap latch mechanism exploded showing the corrosion on the spindle - this can be cleaned up with a bit of emery paper/wet&dry/steel wool. Once the flap rotates freely then the whole mechanism may work properly (after reassembly)
The flap latch mechanism after removal
Here's a photo of the lifter mechanism as viewed from the front of the bike. The 'flap' latch is secured by two fixings (one is shown).
With the front of my 125 all in pieces, I thought I'd see if I could tackle the problem of the stand/wheel lifter not latching.
Turns out, that in this case, it's caused by the 'flap' not moving properly due to a certain amount of corrosion on the shaft.
I'm not sure that this is the cause of all lifters not latching, but it certainly is the cause of this one. I've taken some photos, forgive the state of the mechanism, I'll be giving it a good clean before I put it back.
It might be possible to remove the flap with the lifter in situ - that's left as an exercise for the reader.
Here's a photo of the 'flap' as seen as if one were sitting in the bike.
Could it be that the timing chain has jumped a couple of teeth on the cam cogs? The loss of power sounds similar to when mine suffered the same fate...
So, needed to take the front end of the silver exec to pieces (worrying 'clunk' sounds when hitting any slight obstruction in the road).
One of the studs in the top of the forks had, in the past, been mangled - no amount of drilling, molegripping, cursing or shoving would allow me to unbolt it (even tried drilling a small bore down it, cuttting a thread and inserting a small bolt - which promptly sheared).
So, last resort, out came the angle grinder :(
So, are the studs in the top of the fork tubes replaceable and if so, how does one get them out and fit the new ones?
May need to replace the bush where the stud locates in to as well :(
Sounds a bit similar to when my timing chain slipped a notch ...
Sorry, Phil, you're quite right and I'd meant to put a proviso in there saying that these were general stats
>For me I would like to believe that the probability of a frontal impact would be low
Mind you, somewhere on the site are the official statistics that show that the most common form of bike collision is a T-bone, usually where a vehicle pulls out in front of a biker.
From memory, this was something like a factor of 3 times more likely than any other accident - I'll have a dig around ...
>I have to say, with respect, I think it is a very bad idea to advise wearing anything other than a legal and approved helmet, especially when advising C1 newcomers.
Chris, just to clear this up, neither Clive, nor myself, said anything about wearing a non-legal helmet - we simply advised going for the lightest one possible ...
If you have a look through this site you'll find a number of discussions about the whole 'helmet' argument. BMW designed the bike to be ridden helmet-less, so even though the law (currently) states that you have to wear one, it may be in your best interest to wear the lightest one that you can possibly find ...
Perhaps by the turntable and put a modified scissor jack on the top of it - the modification would be a cross-bar on top of the jack that located onto the 'pivot points' on the bike
Erm, the clue for location may be in the title of the post :-)
I did a low speed fishtail in York Station car park this evening - slippy stuff this new snow! Rode home with very clenched everything ...
Glad you're OK
I think there is a danger that it may be a little too heavy for the top box mounts - may be an idea to bungee your top box to your bike. I don't think there is a problem with the weight - the bike can carry pillion, after all.
The engine could well fit in a sturdy holdall - howabout taking the top box off and strapping a holdall to the bike? I'd prefer to risk knacking a bag than my PDB!
Clive (actd) regularly comments that the tits are there to mitigate against the shock of a fall-over transmitting itself to the rider through the frame
Could your timing have jumped a tooth? Sounds similar to what happened to me ...
The two timing marks in the photo *should* be in line, however, you can see that they are offset ...
It pulls away from the lights a bit sharper and gets to around 75mph (indicated). Apart from that it's pretty similar to the 125.
I've left the panels off to provide a little extra air cooling to the engine and it also allows me to keep an eye out for any leaks or weeps ...
I made the back screen for my Williams from a bit of 3mm perspex (it needed a curve putting in it at the top using a heat gun) ...
One easy thing to check is that the terminals on the battery are screwed up _really_ tight ...
My worn timing chain jumped a tooth as well. I cannot see how a service would affect this, although I would have thought that checking the tension on the chain would be a required part of a major service ...
I think it was 30 odd quid
If that's the case - then mine did the same - I replaced the timing chain.
erm, Clive, it's a Williams - says in the title :-)
Excellent - that sounds a great idea
Scuttlebutt says that Avon's Skin-so-Soft is the best
Not sure if it's the actual insect repellent or the simple moisturising stuff
Check that you haven't overfilled the oil - it's easily done ...
Andrew (alunt), Paul (Beamish) and I travelled on Irish ferries a couple of years ago. We grabbed plenty of ratchet straps from the crew and they provided bits of old carpet to pad across the seat. Either chock the front wheel or make sure that it cannot roll forward by judicious use of straps.
The trip both ways was pretty good
replace *** with p h p (but with no spaces)
>2) When I was refitting the dash the bottom left hand side of the dash doesn't sit quite flush, 2-3 mm out. I think that it is not linking with the glovebox quite right, does anyone have any tips for lining them up?
The screw 'under' the glove box is shorter than all the others - make sure you haven't put that somewhere else ...
I got an 18 inch replacement blade from Wilkinsons for less than a fiver - fitted no hassle
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