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Topic _Timing chain By aware Date 09.04.22 17:52
Chain tensioner gap.
You remove the cap at TDC. There is a tip from Variobob on how to easily assess the gap depth with the head of an allen screw.
I believe there is plenty of info about this on the forum.
And as I recall the 6 mm is stated in the BMW manual although there is no mention of time interval to check.
Topic _Timing chain By aware Date 09.04.22 09:17
I have said this again and again, so let me say it once more!
The problem has to do IMHO with the 6mm gap.
If you follow this and check every 10.000 km's and is within range, then there is no reason for replacement.
When the chain gets longer (especially if you drive full throttle this happens much quicker), then obviously the gap becomes larger and if it is more that 6mm this means (leonm calculated once how even deeper it can go for some extra mm's) that the tensioner can't perform any more it's duty. A slack chain jumps very easily at startup and then you have valves hitting the piston, chain blocked and crankshaft still rotating the chain. This leads to chain breaking.
People then say that the chain broke and this led to valve/pistons hitting although I believe the opposite happens. All starts from a prolonged chain due to heavy usage but there is a way to measure this: THE 6mm GAP!
Topic _Fuel pump By aware Date 09.04.22 09:10
To my experience from C1 and Merc SLK that were both not used for prolonged periods of time is that they "eat" 2 pumps until they stop "eating" them...
So, in essence this most probably means that the tank if full of gum and this is the issue to tackle.
Which is a very time consuming process so I just now use my C1 with my third fuel pump (aliexpress for 15 euros) which (fingers crossed) works fine!
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 30.03.22 07:08
Fuel pump energizes every second time you turn ignition on.
Listen carefully to see if it energizes.
Fuel pumps die very easily with non-running C1's.
I have found and used pump from aliexpress for 15 euros which is OK but suffers from some hiccups when starting from standstill.
Regarding how to check the spark plug, please refer to some video on youtube.
It would help if you shared a video of how the bike doesn't start.
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 28.03.22 08:20
Ignition coil
Spark plug
Spark plug cap
Spark plug cable
TDC sensor

...usual suspects.
Make sure you correctly check if you have a spark or not
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 04.03.22 13:36
Nice!
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 03.03.22 11:26
I rewatched your video.
The spark plug is fouling at some moment but overall I think you should consider some things:
1. Do not assume that your crank sensor is broken. It's also very impobable that the one you bought off ebay is also faulty. Highly unlikely.
2. Check whether or not you have compression! Measure it!
3. Check whether or not the injector works!
4. Think very carefully what was the last thing you or a mechanic has touched on the bike and/or any peculiar symptoms before breakdown. It may be a broken valve! But this usually shows some symptoms before letting you down.
5. It can even be a damn relay (I had this happen to me) or a broken cable in the steering wheel (yes it has happened to me!) or a worn connection at the end of the spark plug cable spark plug cap end (imagine what... it has happened to me too!!!) or or or
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 02.03.22 16:46
I believe that you can get it in hand and show to auto - moto parts sellers and buy one that matches it for very little money to try.
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 01.03.22 18:22
I repeat my above post:

How it behaves is not a good sign.
You need to try (in order of easiness):
1. New spark plug (just buy a new one - not iridium - so you can save time; otherwise wait for iridium one) - You tried.
2. TDC sensor may be sending wrong signal (swap with a working one)
3. Ignition coil may be faulty (swap with a working one)

So... in essense the only way to swap with working ones for points 2 and 3 above. From a friend? from a fellow C1 member?
In any case gladly most parts are also from Aprillia Scarabeo 200 4T and there are plenty of inexpensive alternatives.
As always, with a C1: Diagnosis must be careful and delibarate. Don't rush imho.
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 28.02.22 21:26
Yes please check timing AND the infamous 6mm gap of the chain tensioner!
Also please send us the seller's details. I too wish to get 6 for the price of one! (kidding...)
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 27.02.22 17:38
How it behaves is not a good sign.
You need to try (in order of easiness):
1. New spark plug (just buy a new one - not iridium - so you can save time; otherwise wait for iridium one)
2. TDC sensor may be sending wrong signal (swap with a working one)
3. Ignition coil may be faulty (swap with a working one)
Topic No spark from spark plug - SOLVED !!!! By aware Date 26.02.22 20:24
I would suggest you make a short video so we can hear how it responds when you try to start it.
Seems like a timing issue though.
Topic Temperature Rising Temper Getting Frayed By aware Date 04.10.21 10:17
Did you dilute in 1 litre of antifreeze befrore pouring in?
Topic Variator By aware Date 01.10.21 18:31
I had the same issue!
Topic Exhaust went pop this morning By aware Date 09.07.21 07:22
Interesting post.
Makes sense but to my memory when I swapped exhaust from a 20K C1 to a 80K one I didn't notice any difference at all.
Topic new 'C1" the modern brother By aware Date 07.07.21 13:42
Probably reliabilty issues.
When it works it's a miracle.
When not you are dead...
Topic new 'C1" the modern brother By aware Date 04.07.21 13:22
WOW!
Topic Buying goods from the EU By aware Date 21.04.21 16:31
Harsh new reality.
I was thinking of buying some stuff frome ebay.uk but now I am afraid to do so...
Topic ULEZ exemption By aware Date 05.04.21 16:26
https://www.bikerandbike.co.uk/bikers-must-fight-ulez-exemption/?fbclid=IwAR3JZlAnkQmpjK-wcL403KwssVhvIj8EzPlnR42hVO9R-GLPM6s0wIomwYA

To whom it may concern...
Topic Oil loss through engine vent pipe By aware Date 27.03.21 19:51
C1 200 97000 kms.
Oil loss through engine vent pipe 300 ml per 1000 km!!!
Compression from 15 bar is now 14.5, the engine works as usual, no smoke from exhaust.
Any suggestion please?

Thank you!
Topic Expensive Job By aware Date 21.02.21 09:34
Compression tester 20 quid and easy to use.
How is the spark plug looking after use? Why not post an image?
It can be all done much cheaper especially if you touch it yourself (at least partially).
Topic Heated seats By aware Date 19.02.21 20:58
I had to install a heating pad meant for cars and honestly this has saved my @ss and waist so much!
Topic Steering handlebar pulling to the left By aware Date 05.02.21 11:48
Good morning, when I apply the front brake, the steering handlebar moves anti-clockwise a little but noticeably nevertheless. Any ideas what is happening?
Topic Rollers weight By aware Date 26.11.20 18:04
Scooter has 30.000 km's.
I have replaced the spring at rear variator and put the yellow one from Malossi.
I feel some kind of hesitation when I drive around 5 km per hour.
The feeling is like when we drive a car with gears and instead of 1st we have 2nd gear. That trembling feeling.
Since it is a 200 model I decided to lower a little the weight of the rollers from 11 grams to 10.5 grams.
I think (!) that there is some slight improvement but I don't undersand what is going on...
If I need to lower it more then maybe I will need to have 9.5 grams rollers, almost the ones the 125 model has!
Any ideas please?

Thank you!
Topic Starter relay By aware Date 12.11.20 18:39
Broken connection on starter relay (cable from battery).
I fixed it.
Topic Starter relay By aware Date 11.11.20 19:24
I can hear the "clack" but the starter doesn't turn. When I use positive terminal battery through thick cable to the starter, the starter works.
So either something is corroded or broken with the starter relay or the cable before/after the relay is worn.
Soon I will investigate!
Topic MB Quart C1 By aware Date 01.11.20 10:10
Perfect lockdown project!
BTW, Australia just started lifting up covid-19 measures after a (hold your breath please) "one hundred twelve days" of continuous (winter time there) lockdown.
Topic Put my Yellow C1 back on the road By aware Date 29.10.20 12:01
Well done!
Check the fuel pump and fuel tank condition.
Fuel pump maybe reaching it's sudden death...
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 12.09.20 13:28
Today I removed upper bridge with fork tubes.
I discovered something very weird.
There is a problem to deeply insert the left chrome tube into the lower fork.
In detail: Chrome tube gets inserted almost halfway and then can't get any deeper. Turning and pressing it allows it to go fully deep but then there is no bounce back from oil pressure. It's almost 100% stuck! I tried with other chrome tube (second one - I have disassembled them from upper bridge) and the SAME problem happens.
So something is really wrong with lower left fork. I found inside a broken spring from the seal (I removed with magnetic stick).
Even after removing the broken spring, the problem is the SAME.
Later, I decided to remove all oil to check visually if something looks different from the right one (that is normal).
I didn't notice anything looking bent or broken inside. Tomorrow I will try to looke deeper with some borescope.
Mysteries everywhere.

Thank you
Topic Valve clearance By aware Date 12.09.20 10:42
Can it be that someone replaced them before you and decided to go for big clearances?
As memory serves me, it's better to go for bigger than less.
To my experience the important thing is to not mess with a small clearance on the exhaust side.
I had actually open inlet valves but didn't have any issues since these get cooled with gas intake.
Believe it or not, I first adjusted them (grinded inlet cups) at 78000 kms. Now I have 94000 kms.
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 11.09.20 19:29
Update: the wheel is roatating perfectly fine so I understand that maybe the helicoil has some kind of elasticity and this leads to the wobble feeling I get through the steering handlebar.
Topic Valve clearance By aware Date 11.09.20 19:27
Gaps should get smaller with time.
Are you sure you measure them correctly?
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 10.09.20 10:36
Update:
Some knowledgable mechanic applied a proper helicoil in a proper way and now it's now fixed.
However, a new problem has arised: The front wheel wobbles especially when braking.
I swapped the front wheel and it hasn't fixed.
Maybe I did something wrong in the way I inserted the forks into the tubes.
Mystery...
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 28.08.20 18:04
I tried the helicoil solution but it can't handle the forces.
I would like to put a nut under but there is no access. Any ideas please?
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 18.08.20 13:46
So an update here not so good one.
The screw stud - pivot pin is loose inside the housing.
I can see it jogging at all sides and there is no possibility to tighten it more than 14 Nm.
So now only option helicoil.
I ordered this and fingers crossed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-M14X1-25-Spark-Plug-Helicoil-Thread-Reamer-Tap-Repair-Kit-with-4-Inserts-/254178881259
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 15.08.20 11:18
I think you can attach back the spark plug rubber part by screwing it on the cable.
You spark plug seems really neat.
Remove the cover that covers the fuel pump. There is a plug. Check first if 12v comes there when you turn on the ignition and while pressing the starter button (kill switch must be off etc).
Then apply corresponding 12v to the other plug (fuel pump one) to check if it gets energized.
Not easy but not nuclear technology.
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 12.08.20 08:32
The bike shows now symptom of dead fuel pump.
It's a 10 minutes job to remove the cover and apply 12v externally to check whether or not it's getting energised.
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 09.08.20 11:32
Probably broken fuel pump.
Happens to c1's that stay unused for long periods.
Not difficult to remove and also test.
You may shoot a video where you turn on/off ignition 5-6 times in quiet place and share with us.
Has happened to one of mine. I replaced with one costing 13 euros from aliexpress. Be careful to not buy others that may be stronger in liters/hour; it will stutter and also may lead to dreadful leakages and/or fire.
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 09.08.20 08:58
next I would check if fuel pump is working. every second turn of the ignition you should hear a "hiss" sound.
do you hear it?
Topic Engine will not start/turn over By aware Date 07.08.20 15:41
1. jump start with car battery
2. are you sure injector cables aren't connected to air box sensor? they have the same plug
Topic Engine rubber bushes By aware Date 09.06.20 07:55
I took the plunge and replaced the engine rubber bushes with some equivalent ones and not the OEM ones.
Cost around 25 euros for both.
Substantial improvement, real metamorphosis.
The old ones with 93000 km's on were obviously deformed and one had a bruise too.
I suspect that around 60-70.000 km's it makes sense to replace them.
Topic Tire Balancing By aware Date 05.06.20 16:42
Tire Balancing

Is it necessary?
I have changed numerous tires and never balanced them without any noticeable issues.
Now I have a tire that on two different rims wobbles when I hold the handlebar with one hand AND generally doesn't feel stiff and tight.
However, as soon as I replaced the whole wheel (swapping) I immediately felt improvement.
All these lead me to believe that this particular FRONT tire is just very unbalanced!

What do you think?
Thank you
Topic C1 125cc F&F stolen from Shepherd's Bush, London By aware Date 25.05.20 17:45
Did they also break the steering wheel lock?
Topic Oil strainer faut pas!! By aware Date 17.05.20 20:13
Guys! Has happened to me! It's serious!!!
Topic Oil strainer faut pas!! By aware Date 17.05.20 17:51
Mine was put wrongly due to alternative sump plug.
At the end, it eventually was swept out and stuck at the water pump sprocket.
Sprocket broke. Water pump stopped working. Temp light came on.
I am really lucky that it didn't burn the head gasket.
Topic Coolant in the oil! By aware Date 24.04.20 14:11
There is a spacer in between the two seals so it makes sense that you hit something outer than the shaft.
If the hole is not clogged anymore then simply running the engine with coolant in the system will show if it will drip or not.
Check this and come back.
BTW a cappuccino oil is usually a head gasket issue.
Topic Coolant in the oil! By aware Date 21.04.20 17:27
If I were you:
1. I would check if the hole is clogged
2. I would check oil and coolant level
Topic Coolant in the oil! By aware Date 21.04.20 16:31
Engine pressure: not necessarily lower if the only leak is between oil and coolant passages.
Topic Coolant in the oil! By aware Date 21.04.20 11:21
Cappuccino oil is not a good sign.
Most probably head gasket.
Otherwise, double faulty seals of water impeller along with a clogged hole under engine. Very unlikely though.
It makes sense to upload some photos of how oil looks and if you have any drips on floor.
Topic Steering pivot pin By aware Date 23.03.20 19:27
Due to Covid-19 and long boredom at home I decided to check if the little slack on the steering handlebar.
My findings:
1. The slack is not scary yet. It needs some good force to feel a slack of 1 cm sideways and 0,5 cm back and forth. Not exact measures, just how I feel them.
2. As I understand the 6002-RS2 are very tight in the plate.
3. What worried my very much was the fact that the pivot pin if screwed not fully and without the plate (eg halfway), it has some slack and this would not be happening as I understand from a M14x1.75 high quality construction. When I tighten fully the screw (without the plate again), then it is very tight.

As a result, I put the spacer and plate and 80Nm torque but again the handlebar has the same slack.
It seems that if the thread inside the frame is worn, it will be very hard to helicoil it again.

Any ideas please?

Thank you!

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