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Topic Top case lock missing - what elements are needed? By alunt Date 29.11.21 11:27
I used something similar to this:

I had to open up the lock hole in the handle to get the lock part to fit. You don't need the large washers. Then drill a hole through into the main part of the top box on an upward angle, so that the long bolt passes through and leaves the female part of the lock at the right angle for when you close the handle. Some Dremmeling may be needed to get this to work perfectly. The lock worked well for over 10 years while I owned the bike. It was also much more secure.
Topic Top case lock missing - what elements are needed? By alunt Date 26.11.21 13:50
You have a few bits missing I think:
Lock barrel and key obviously
Retaining cover and 2 screws
Locking lever - a small piece of plastic which attaches to the end of the barrel with a screw and washer

This whole system is very flimsy and a sharp tug on the handle will break it open. I'm not sure you can buy all the bits separately though. It's better to look for a generic key locking system to fit in the same lock hole and engages into a stable metal piece attached to the main part of the top box. If you search on the forum you may find what I'm trying to explain. It will involve a bit of modification and drilling to get it to fit properly. Others fit a shed clasp and padlock, which is simple and secure, but ugly in my opinion.

Here you go, this is what I meant:;hl=neat
Topic Bangers and Cash - C1 sold in November By alunt Date 22.11.21 10:58
Looks in good condition, provided the windscreen is okay. I would guess a 125cc due to the lack of 200 stickers. Looks like a 3 prong stand so an earlier manufacture date. I wonder if Mathewsons managed to break the weak link! Probably!
Someone got a bargain at £1000.
Topic A C1 living less than a mile from my house! By alunt Date 10.11.21 15:48
I've just met a new owner who's bought a very nice 125 black Executive on eBay. He was under the influence when he was bidding for it and was more than surprised the next morning when he found he'd bought it! He was at the house of another former C1 owner (like me) when I called round to pick up a variator tool he'd borrowed. So we had a rare group of 3 C1 enthusiasts gathered in Bolton.

I've told him about the forum so he may join up. He's already made a neat replacement plate for the broken top box lugs which looked very sturdy, so he could be a useful member on here with that kind of innovation..
Topic Petrol pump By alunt Date 25.10.21 09:08
I always found the TDC bolt hole very difficult to access with the engine in the bike. Dropping the engine right down on the swing arm, by detaching the lower shock absorber points and releasing cable support clips, might help. Removing the rear mud guard to access the bolt hole is not a quick job.
Topic BMW Williams Colour Codes By alunt Date 09.10.21 09:21
If you give the codes to an autopaint specialist they can usually make up the paint you need.
Topic 2003 C1 Front Brake lever stuck - By alunt Date 30.06.21 09:17
I agree that the brake caliper pistons would be worth investigating first.

I've had brake master cylinders fail but this usually means a soft or spongey brake lever. Can you disconnect the lever from the hydraulic pipe and see if it's still stuck due to some mechanical failure inside it? This would help narrow down the problem. New master cylinders with brake lever are available from BMW, there's no refurbishment kit option as far as I know.

I've come across failed ABS pumps as well, but they never cause a locked brake lever in my experience and have always triggered the ABS lights to come on.
Topic Some quick questions By alunt Date 30.06.21 09:02
You will find a lot of opinions on this forum about helmet use, but in the UK we have to wear them on a C1 by law and our cool wet winter weather means a warmer face and head as well! As to safety, there are some who say the risk of whiplash is greater with a helmet on if you have an accident, others will say a helmet protects your head from flying or intruding objects during an accident and a sideways impact from a truck or similar high fronted vehicle could even allow your head to strike that vehicle. On balance I wouldn't wear one in the summer if I didn't have to by law and I would wear a light weight one if the law requires it.
I think a reasonable cruising speed on the motorway is around 60 mph or just enough to stay ahead of trucks creeping up on you, it also gives you a bit in reserve on the throttle if you come to an uphill stretch, so you can keep a more consistent speed.
I can ride happily for 2 hours on a C1 then my bum needs a short rest!
I've no great experience of other motor bikes, only push bikes, but I never found the C1's handling to be difficult in any way. I never dropped one in the 20 years I rode them and I think the main time people do drop them is while maneuvering, so just concentrate on keeping them upright when parking / turning round / getting in and out of the garage etc. Out on the road just lean into bends as you would on any bike and allow the tyres to grip the road for you. Filtering through traffic jams is easy, just watch the mirrors when passing a Transit van or similar.
Topic Hello from an old member who hasn't been around for a while By alunt Date 07.06.21 08:19
The stand should be fixable, but lubrication will probably involve removing the dash, handlebar cover and bending back the central tunnel cover to properly expose the mechanism and get the grease into the areas which need it. The locking "flap" is probably sticking on its spindle and needs removing and cleaning and greasing properly at zero cost. I've heard that sometimes a well aimed squirt of WD40 without removing anything can help, but it's often only a temporary fix and not something I've ever been able to achieve!

It would be a pity to break it for parts just for this fault, but I agree the parts could be worth more than the whole bike, if you can sell them.
Topic Exhaust went pop this morning By alunt Date 20.05.21 12:32
I think I've got a decent second hand exhaust somewhere. The only time I've had one break was at the collar near the engine, I think it had been incorrectly mounted and there was too much tension on it.

PM me if you want a decent spare one. Keep in mind I'm in Manchester.
Topic Using a Bike Lift for C1 By alunt Date 03.04.21 09:05
I have a: Clarke CML5 Hydraulic Motorcycle And ATV Lift

It works very well with the C1. It comes with straps to hold the bike steady on the lift and has stabiliser screws which screw down to the ground when you don't need to move it about. Provided you have a firm level surface you are unlikely to need outside stabiliser hooks. You can move the bike around while on the lift and it leaves the engine and transmission free to drop down or remove for maintenance. If you remove the engine remember to have the front wheel supported as the bike becomes nose heavy at that stage. I used a car wheel ramp.

When the bike is raised its very comfortable to work on sitting on a low stool, very useful as you get older and less flexible!

These days I use it for car engine removal when dropping an engine out of a car, it's also brilliant for that!
Topic Wasp C1, 125, superb condition, £2100 - SOLD By alunt Date 12.03.21 13:11
It looks superb Pat! Worth every penny, good luck.
Topic New C1 owner - problem with engine electrics By alunt Date 09.03.21 10:44
It looks like the fuel injector wires have broken at some point and have been "repaired". That's a common fault. I notice at least one of the screws which holds the injector in place is missing. The air temperature sensor plug seems to be missing and I suspect the wires for it have been connected together in that red connector.

I was once told that these engines will start even if all the sensors are disconnected, I'm not sure that's entirely true, but it will run without some of them connected. However it will not run as it should obviously. I would suggest you keep looking for signs of other bodges and maybe we can find a section of wiring loom to help. I have a couple of old wiring looms somewhere.
Topic Expensive Job By alunt Date 23.02.21 14:36
If that doesn't work I have a spare 200 engine in good condition, with everything apart from the starter motor. It came out of a stolen recovered write off which had done around 23 000 miles. The price would be significantly less than the labour cost you have mentioned. I have one other person interested in it, so treat it as subject to availability. PM me if it's of interest to you.
Topic ABS LIGHTS ON By alunt Date 16.02.21 09:02
The battery should read just over 12V when the engine is off. When the engine is running you should see around 14V

The ABS can fail at any time. Is the speedo working correctly? If not, a faulty sensor at the front wheel could be the problem. The rear wheel sensor also needs to be working, swapping it for a working one is the only way I know to test that one.

If the sensors are OK the problem could lie with the pump. Its location is in the firing line for water and salt behind the front wheel. Its electrics are sealed but if the loom covering has deteriorated you can find the main plug for the pump has filled up with mud and caused corrosion. This is quite a big problem to rectify reliably, but worth trying first if you are able. In my experience all is not lost if that doesn't work: the C1 braking system is very good without ABS and still functions well even if the electrics for the whole ABS system have failed. I had one C1 with a dead ABS pump and had no more spare pumps, so I removed the distracting ABS bulbs and the rear ABS sensor, then rode it for several months with no braking issues, it even passed its MOT like that. I stress again, that was my experience and you should seek professional advice if you're not happy to do it.
Topic Learning all the time! By alunt Date 04.02.21 08:42
Could it have been printed before they did the Williams version?

I have a copy of the same booklet and the front page has been filled in with the date the dealer gave it to the customer, that was June 2001. The Williams was available from May 2001, so the booklet was just out of date then.
Topic Finance offer By alunt Date 02.02.21 10:43
I suspect that part way through the C1's production run they moved over to the more secure 2 pronger for all bikes built from that point onwards. Then there were so many unsold ones sloshing about in the supply chain that the early 3 prongers were still being offered new at the same time as later production bikes were finding their way onto the market. These later ones could have been factory orders with a specification not available in stock. The advert is probably one of the stock of earlier bikes which was still looking for a home.
Topic Finance offer By alunt Date 30.01.21 15:20
Blimey, that was cheap! In Nov 2000 I paid £3945 OTR up front for a new basic one (Pure) including a £228 top box and a "special allowance" of £257.87!

To me it was worth every penny because it started a 20 year run of them, during which time I more than paid for any extra I may have spent on that first one, by renovating them as a hobby. I still haven't seen a better way to commute on the market.
Topic Textile side screens By alunt Date 26.01.21 13:08
I might even follow you in my Matra, the main parts supplier for them is in Germany as well!
Attachment: Murena.JPG - Matra Murena (43k)
Topic Textile side screens By alunt Date 25.01.21 19:26
I've noticed on eBay that some things I've looked at buying from EU countries have a red warning saying they no longer supply the UK. I think they're enjoying punishing us now!
Topic Tumble weed int it. By alunt Date 22.01.21 10:30
Hi Pat. Are you telling me there's an accessory which Paul hasn't got already fitted on his C1?? I've certainly never seen one fitted.

My Optimate trickle charger socket was routed out through the little removable light bulb access panel in the rear battery compartment and round the side where it hung just out of sight under the right rear wing, but was easily accessible. No panel drilling required. The socket had a water proof cover so it didn't get corroded.
Topic Tumble weed int it. By alunt Date 21.01.21 10:44
Wow, not a single post on here in 2021 yet! So let me be the first.
Happy New Year everyone.
I can only assume that your C1's are all running perfectly and no-one needs any help with topics which aren't already on here.

I've noticed a bit of activity on the Facebook site, but I'm not very FB savvy, so I don't attempt any responses!
Topic Intake air temperature sensor By alunt Date 22.11.20 11:26
The sprag is the starter freewheel which is a kind of friction ratchet which allows the starter to grip the flywheel to turn the engine over, then freewheel when the engine is running. It relies on a spring to work and the spring can slacken over time and the starter begins to slip. Any slip here confuses the ECU because the signal through the pulse pick up becomes irregular as the starter partially grips and releases the flywheel. When the ECU is confused it may trigger fuel injection but not trigger a spark at the right time, so the engine won't start. You can hear if the sprag is slipping from the sound when you're trying to start the engine. You can easily hear if it's losing its grip. Many years ago I had a C1 with a weak freewheel and didn't think it should prevent the engine from starting, based on knowledge of car starters slipping on the starter ring in the days of distributors, so I ignored it as a problem. It took me weeks to work out the problem! I managed to shorten the spring and it started on the button every time after that.

On the Realoem site it's part number 10 on the "alternator with pulley and mounts" page.

I meant voltage regulator, not rectifier. It's behind the right rear bodywork, but I'm not sure how to test it, maybe someone has put that on the forum somewhere? I would just swap it with another one to check it.

If ever you're over in the Manchester area and want to borrow or buy some parts to try, let me know. I've still got a shed load of C1 parts, including a regulator, even though I've no more C1s.
Topic Intake air temperature sensor By alunt Date 21.11.20 12:58
Wet spark plugs usually mean little or no spark from the plug to ignite the fuel. People have said this can be caused by low voltage to the ECU caused by a broken wire(s) from the alternator and a failing battery resulting in less than 10 volts arriving at the ECU. You've already addressed other potential faults such as old plug and plug cap.

A faulty rectifier is also worth considering, they have been known to fail.

I'm assuming the starter sprag is OK and not slipping when turning the engine over?

Check the wiring loom for damage and potential earthing to the frame, also check the earthing points for corrosion.

I haven't much experience of failing air temperature sensors.
Topic Noise Reduction Kit By alunt Date 10.11.20 11:12
I haven't forgotten the sound deadening pads Chris. I found one rough looking one, but I think I've got a bag of bits somewhere. I'll keep looking.

There is one more piece around the engine which is visible under the seat hinge.
Topic Noise Reduction Kit By alunt Date 05.11.20 15:54
Good to see a name from the past! I copied your top box paint many years ago, so mine looked the same as yours. I sold it last week after 18 years of ownership.
I found that the foam in the housing in, around and under the alternator held water and caused corrosion. I just removed it and put the covers back to keep the original look. The rest of it didn't cause problems or over heating, so I just left it in place. I'm not convinced it reduces the noise much though. I've ridden plenty of C1s without noise reduction and not noticed a difference.
I've still got some bits of the noise reduction kit lying about somewhere, I got it from a write-off I stripped a few years ago. You can have them for the cost of p&p
Topic MB Quart C1 By alunt Date 31.10.20 14:22***?4924-MB-Quart-BMW-C1-Scooter-2001-CA-amp-E

I think you'd hear that sub woofer OK!
Topic Put my Yellow C1 back on the road By alunt Date 29.10.20 12:02
That paint looks great!

They are generally very robust in my opinion. The only other thing to watch for, after a long time of not being used, is the front fork seals leaking and maybe the rear shocks if they're original ones. Modern unleaded fuel deteriorates quite quickly so should be drained before long term storage or a gummy resin-like deposit can settle in the bottom of the tank and can block the fuel filter. I had this with my car restoration and the only solvent I could find to shift it from the tank was Mr Muscle oven cleaner!
Topic The time has come... By alunt Date 25.10.20 12:42
Thanks guys, I intend to be around on the forum, trying to "download" where possible. I'll always have half an eye open for a needy restoration, once this restored car is running reliably. I'm also intrigued that BMW is playing around with the concept of a safe scooter again, so I'll be keeping an eye on that as well. Somehow I suspect that C1itis will be back to bite me at some point!
Topic The time has come... By alunt Date 24.10.20 11:57
Yes, my last C1 has finally been sold and my 20 year adventure with these wonderful machines is over. I was an early adopter of C1s back in 2000, when I was the first person to buy a new one from Williams in Manchester. I've never understood why most people couldn't see the point of them. For me they were the perfect answer to commuting through heavy traffic in relative safety and comfort and I did that for 9 years. Since 2009 they have been a hobby for me and I've renovated about 20 of them over that time, because I just love tinkering. They all had to be sold on due to lack of space, except my 200 Executive, which I maintained to a good level and held onto for 18 years until now.
I've never ridden any other kind of motorbike, so I've never noticed any top heaviness issue and I can now safely say I've never dropped one! So they've been great fun, but now I'm only riding about 400 miles in an average year (except 1000 miles to Germany with Pat and Paul last year) so I've decided it's time to sell the last one and concentrate on my car renovation project.
I'll keep in touch with the forum which has probably been my most visited website over the past 20 years! Thanks to all of you for your friendship, help, advice and experiences it's been fantastic. I still have literally a shed load of parts including body panels, a complete 200 engine and many many other bits, which I'll try to catalogue and photograph, so just ask if you need something (no windscreens or crash elements though!).
I'm not ruling out getting another one in the future, but for now I'm an ex-c1owner
Topic Petrol pressure test By alunt Date 08.10.20 14:40
Have you unplugged the seatbelt switches? These can fail, so to test that you can unplug them from the loom under the seat. Where the latch for the seat is located you can see a connector either side of it, if you pull those apart the bike will run as if the belts are plugged in IIRC. It might help eliminate the belt switches as the cause of any faults. However, as Pat says, the bike still shouldn't stall if the belts aren't plugged in or the switches are faulty.
Topic Valve clearance By alunt Date 24.09.20 20:22
Out of 10 shims I’ve got one 2.8. Most of the others are 2.85. Private message me with your address if you want the 2.8
Topic Valve clearance By alunt Date 21.09.20 18:21
The belt and stand switches shouldn't affect the idling of the engine, they just prevent the engine revving if the stand's down or the belts aren't plugged in. So the stalling won't be connected directly to the stand or belts.
Have you already checked for an air leak round the injector?
Topic Stator By alunt Date 13.09.20 08:04
Have you done the checks for an air leak around the fuel injector?
Topic Valve clearance By alunt Date 13.09.20 07:51
Because we don't see large gaps usually we don't know how that would affect the engine running. Normally as the engine warms up the valve stem increases in length, which reduces the clearance. In your case the engine running should actually improve as it warms up because the gap would be reducing closer to the spec for a cold engine. That would mean that the exhaust valve would not be opening quite enough for best performance, but I wouldn't expect it to make the engine stall. I think you should still set the gaps to the correct ones, you may not need to buy new shims, there are quite a few people with the larger sizes lying about, myself included. I can have a look for a couple for you if you need them, let me know.

The only other cause I've seen for one of these engines to stall as it warms up was when the crank was seizing, but this happened within one minute of starting it from cold and it was a very sudden stop each time. I don't think this will be your problem though.
Topic Valve clearance By alunt Date 11.09.20 20:21
Agree it’s unusual to get a larger gap than spec on the exhaust valve. In this case you need 0.05 thinner bucket which means you need a 2.70 bucket instead of a 2.75. That would give the maximum clearance which is the safer end of the range.
Topic brake light staying on By alunt Date 05.09.20 09:07
100% sure. If you disconnect the battery when it’s running it will stop immediately. If you jump start with a dead battery it will stop as soon as you disconnect the jump leads. No idea why, maybe related to fuel injection cut off as a safety feature?
Topic brake light staying on By alunt Date 04.09.20 20:39
The engine will not run with a dead battery
Topic Rear caliper By alunt Date 02.09.20 08:36
Hi Paul
I remember reading about this kind of uneven pad wear being a problem many years ago. Some of it was due to the pad retaining pin holes wearing, but maybe the wear you've seen was also a problem. I think Lawrie made up some bushes to insert in the calipers, once the holes had been drilled round again. Maybe a search will reveal something. Don't forget to spell caliper with one L though!
Topic End of an era By alunt Date 17.08.20 09:16
I'd like to join that trip. All I need is an invitation from the curator, a nice guy called Paul I think. Oh hang on .......
Topic End of an era By alunt Date 12.08.20 12:42
A nice idea to keep a pristine C1 in pristine condition! Sorry to see you giving away your last one, but I guess it will come to most of us at some point. Mine only does about 500 miles a year now, unless I go to the Treffen on it, when it does an extra 1000 miles. So with no Treffen this year it won't get used much. I've been renovating a Matra Murena car for the past 9 months, instead of my usual pastime of renovating C1's, so I don't spend as much time on them these days. They are a lot easier to maintain than 37 year old cars!!

Keep in contact with us, I'm sure your experience will be useful to less experienced owners.
Topic Tire Balancing By alunt Date 15.06.20 07:40
I always have them balanced when they're fitted, it costs very little extra and eliminates the thought that this could be the cause every time you feel a vibration. Wheel weights are nearly always required, so the balancing has a benefit.
Topic How to repair a seized engine? By alunt Date 15.06.20 07:34
You will also need to take out the crank and sort out the conrod to crank bearing. Even if it seems to be rotating when cold you may find it seizes whenever you start the engine. I've got a spare parts engine which was doing exactly this. The repair requires a press to get it apart, then you have to source the parts, so in the end I found it cheaper to buy a write off with a good engine.
Topic Coolant in the oil! By alunt Date 26.04.20 06:58
I can confirm that 4 years later my C1 still has no coolant leak into oil problems. Like yours, my C1 was not used for a few years, during which time the outside of the water pump corroded and let coolant into the oil. Maybe I'd put the wrong antifreeze in at some point in the past and it allowed a bit of corrosion. If you replace the large o rings it should be ok, I replaced the whole pump because I had a spare.

Another example of how c1s deteriorate if unused, along with shock absorbers, fork seals and stand mechanisms in my experience.
Topic Rattling/chattering noise finally located. By alunt Date 31.03.20 20:58
Did you find a refurb kit for the piston seal etc as well?
Topic Protect your C1 from Covid-19 By alunt Date 24.03.20 09:33
Well done Pat! I can see a few potential problems but a good start. You must be getting a bit bored I suspect ????
Topic Bike vandalised - broken windscreen By alunt Date 19.02.20 10:47
You have to prize them off and they're quite brittle, so some break. The best way to make them less brittle is to warm them up in some way: sunshine / hair dryer / hot air gun etc. Then gently work a screwdriver in from the outer edge and slowly undo each one. Good luck!
Topic Poor cold starting By alunt Date 28.01.20 22:47
Could be a weak spring on the sprag clutch if the starter sounds like it’s losing connection with the engine while trying to start it.
Topic Tyres By alunt Date 01.12.19 19:25
I’ve tried Bridgestone Battlax tyres on the fronts of 2 C1 s and found them to be good. They were described to me as the next development of the Hoops and I would say that’s reflected in their performance. I haven’t tried them on the rear yet.
Topic My 500 miler By alunt Date 24.10.19 22:39
Yes but that’s not the famous Wunderlich mud guard Paul got in Germany. A very rare item apparently!

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