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- By 1ukeinlondon Date 16.08.19 17:14 Edited 16.08.19 17:36
Hi guys, hope this is the right thread.

I just picked up a 200 with 29k miles sight unseen for what i think is a good deal.

Here is the info that has been shared with me "Bike starts first time and rides fine, would not need a lot for MOT, main items to note rear brake pads need replacing (included), and the fork seals need replacing. Other items of note but not called out on MOT inspection are left safety belt latch needs repair\replacing, Alarm does not work. The topbox is held on by octopus straps but is secure and lockable.

I am having it taken to my mechanic to strip down as this will be a project of mine with an aim to have it up and running for the winter and modded.

Questions so far-

1) Is it better to have the stock suspension serviced or to upgrade with Hagons?
2) Thoughts about sending the engine to Vten for assesment and service? 
3) I never found out if all models come with Heated Seats / Grips but I would like to have that
4) The sunroof option how do i get one?
5) What else should i be considering at this stage
6) Not sure why the top box is held on by straps but i guess i will find out what needs fixing

I want to be methodical about this so I work smart, look forward to hearing your thoughts/experience.

Thanks,

Luke
Parent By rockstedy Date 16.08.19 17:49 Edited 16.08.19 20:36
1) YSS or Wilbers, Hagon only if you want to seel it,
2) you can DIY with some tools,
3) heating pack from BMW sometimes required loom adaptor if not already fitted,
4) eBay or whole bike with it. It make more sense have it with wind pack as cabin can be cooled easily. Please note that roof leaks and there is no new seal available from BMW anymore,
5) oils+ filters may do compression test- if engine work well leave as it is until gives some problems. Possibly replacing front bearings and engine mounts bearings to be on safe side,
6) there is handy hooks form teileshop in Germany https://www.c1teile-shop.de/karosserie/144/topcase-sicherung or can check my lugs repair post if helps.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 17.08.19 08:11
Welcome!
I’d be VERY careful about giving all that work to your mechanic. It all takes time, and I can see you spending a total of £2,500 on the bike, which will still be a 30,000 miles bike.
Front fork seal replacement-£240??

I would not send the engine away. I don’t know what you’d hoe to get out of that. If it doesn’t work properly then get it fixed, otherwise normal service items only.

Alternatively, at 30k you are looking a a new timing chain AND new timing chain tensioner.
I’d replace the thermostat. I’m beginning to think the problems encountered on higher mileage bikes are caused by a failed thermostat making the bike overheat, leading to cam wheel jumping a tooth, valve mashing and chain snapping.

Ask me how I know.

Now obviously this next bit is a a bit of a cheek, but you might want to consider just riding the bike to see if you like it, then getting any necessary work done if you want to keep it, or sell it on and spend more money on a low mileage example. I have one I’m thinking of selling by coincidence. It’s unlikely to need anywhere near the amount of work yours does, either to get it back in the road (it’s been stored) or general upkeep in the next few years , and you end up with a 3,000 mile bike in excellent order. There’s practically no rust or corrosion on mine. It’s mostly like it was when it was made. I’m having difficulty getting my head round selling it but I have other things to consider!
Anyway. That’s my tuppence.
Parent By 1ukeinlondon Date 17.08.19 09:53 Edited 17.08.19 16:46
Thank-you both for your comments. I have taken most of it on-board ;-)

You're probably right (if I am lucky) I will spend about £2500 on it over the next year- historically thats what i do with my projects. I never get my money back at the end but I get immense pleasure from enjoying it and i can't see myself ever selling it as it is being built for purpose.

I am having the bike transported today g-d willing. AnyVan messed me around yesterday, then Shiply said they would collect it yesterday but neglected to tell me it would be 9.30pm so have had to re-arrange it for today.

I want to be very methodical so before he puts the bike back together he is able to fit everything so here is a list of what I think i will need so far which i think is the following-

1- Fun Audio (upgraded amp i think i have one) & Head Unit with phone app support (not to be confused with CarPlay now)
2- Alarm (cheap but good recommended one?)
3- Micro USB for wireless charging holder
4- Oxford Heated Grips (if it doesn't have stock ones)
5- Tracker (i currently have Bike trac (i feel like there are cheaper ways of doing it)
6- Keyless ignition (leaving stock as decoy-always wanted to do that)
7- Might need some sort of Power Management

I will probably have the panels sent off for wrapping while this is happening as hopefully it is cheaper as well as easier to do it this way.

Just realized apart from making a note of the cosmetic items that need replacing I don't know if there is anything else I should be looking for while I am with the bike?

It's living at my mechanics shop (not close to me) so would like to make the most of my trip on Monday.

Thanks
Parent - By aware Date 17.08.19 10:54
Curious to know how an overheated engine can lead to cam slipping a tooth.
Can you please elaborate?

Thank you
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 18.08.19 16:08 Edited 18.08.19 20:43
I use one very much like this. Happy enough with it. One speaker died, but as is bought two I just used one from the other set.
If I was using the bike more, I’d fit a pair of FAS speakers and wire it in to that.
133091256805
That’s the Ebay item
Number.

Mine is without the alarm, so doesn’t drain the battery. (I’ve connected it to an ignition live)
I set the radio and leave it.
Parent - By Mad_Accountant Date 20.08.19 06:30
Luke, where in London are you?
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 20.08.19 14:26
PM'ed you Phil-

OK so i saw the bike, how do i load pictures on this site? Do i have to go to TinyPic?

BASICALLY..every panel is pretty much screwed including the tits (both sides) and the seat, the luggage is strapped on so i think there is an issue with the mechanism (i think someone mentioned a fix above)

What is fine, tyres, windscreen, wipers, left side panels are OK

I spoke to the V-Ten who quote me £300-£500 for the 30k Service OUCH ha, I am at 29k right now so the plan is to pass the MOT (address anything else major that my mechanic can see) then pick it up, ride around until i can afford the above and pick up new panels from online as they become available (ebay?)

Once someone shares how to upload pictures will do that so everyone can have a good laugh
Parent By HelmetHair Date 20.08.19 16:47
Go back to your post, and a new option”ATTACH” will be visible in the line below it. Then you can upload pics from phone or computer.
I think the idea is if there is a problem with the pics, you do not lose your posting, just the pics.

What would v ten do for £500? To be honest, you’d be better off buying my bike. Then when it’s done to your satisfaction you will have a hell of a bike, rather than one that’s done 30,000 miles. But I won’t push it again! :-)

Parent - By alunt Date 21.08.19 07:40
You usually have to reduce the size of your pictures as well. A bit of a PITA I find.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 21.08.19 07:49
Agreed.
It’s ok to reduce the size to less than 1mb on a pc to right click and reduce size, but on my iPhone I have to send it to myself to reduce the size before posting.
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 21.08.19 18:23
Hi guys still thinking about this FAS system. Been researching it on the forum but can't find how long the install takes?

I can pick a FAS up for £150 + Labour

or

A Bluetooth powered speaker for £80 (hopefully as decent) + hopefully less than an hour install time

Thanks
Parent - By aware Date 21.08.19 18:33
Or bluetooth wireless, cable-free earpieces that don't fall at bumps.
Both play simultaneously with Dual Audio function.
Each earpiece costs 8 pounds
Parent By 1ukeinlondon Date 21.08.19 18:54
Am aware of non speaker options thank you
Parent By HelmetHair Date 21.08.19 20:00
I have removed a FAS before. It is a royal pita.
I’m thinking it would take a solid three hours, possibly 4 or 5 to fit.
The Chinese one I fitted was MUCH quicker. Say an hour.
For what I used the bike for-commuting wearing a helmet-there is a limited amount of effort I would put into fitting a FAS kit.
Parent - By alunt Date 21.08.19 20:25 Edited 21.08.19 20:35
If you can get hold of the proper C1 speakers they are good, but from what I’ve heard the FAS amp is not good. In fact I’ve got it on one of my C1s and never bothered to try it! I must give it a go next time I’m out on it. My other C1 has the BMW speakers connected to a 40 watts per channel Boombox and they handle the power very well, they sound good.
Parent - By aware Date 22.08.19 05:49
The FAS has a number of issues, mainly the volume becoming very loud for no reason at times.
I have used it extensively in the past and it was nice having people staring at me at traffic lights with awe and admiration (????) but got tired with all the crazy behaviour.
Now I have two bikes with speakers on and just leave them like this for aesthetic reasons; they are interesting at least...
Parent - By Alexbmwc1 Date 22.08.19 08:22
Also, FAS is quite pointless in the UK anyway...
What can one expect to hear with a helmet on :-)
Unless the goal is to show others your musical taste :-)
Parent By HelmetHair Date 22.08.19 10:54

>Unless the goal is to show others your musical taste


Which was embarrassing if i listened to the radio, pulled up at a set of lights being cool (!) when something lame came on the radio at high volume.
*sigh*
Parent By 1ukeinlondon Date 24.08.19 10:41
You can hear a lot with a helmet on, especially I imagine when the speakers are in cabin and when you wear a helmet which doesn't cover the ears. I have had a tank bag stereo on my bike before which was great up to 50 but agreed about the embarrassing tunes. Def' not one of these guys playing the 'right' tunes but with the speakers a few inches from my head I am hoping that it won't be so noticeable outside especially when i have the rear screen and the side windows fitted. Stay tuned!
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 22.08.19 10:53 Edited 23.08.19 09:34
The FAS volume can indeed go up and down by itself, allegedly to combat engine noise (it is controlled by a signal from the alternator)

I fitted a switch which effectively keeps the volume on its highest setting (mimicking holding the volume "up" button on continuously), regardless of any input from the alternator, so it is controlled by the volume you put in to it. That worked for me but the solution I found easiest in a bike without a FAS was using a Chinese waterproof radio as previously noted.
Parent By 1ukeinlondon Date 23.08.19 09:03
I have ordered a Lexin S3 powered speakers with bluetooth £89 the cost of the unit and the ease of install is financially a no-brainer. I will test them out before having them installed to make sure i am happy with the sound quality

Does anyone know where i can get a list of all the body panel numbers? People seem to list panels using those online and i can't always figure out which parts its for

Thanks
Parent - By alunt Date 25.08.19 07:12
I tried the standard BMW FAS yesterday. It works ok but the speed sensitive volume is linked to engine revs instead of bike speed for some strange reason. Every time you back off the throttle the sound goes quiet, then when you open up again the volume goes back up. So riding in traffic at varying throttle openings renders the FAS useless at best and irritating at worst.

The Boombox on my other C1 has no speed or revs sensitivity and is a far more successful setup. It also has better sound quality, although the FAS sound quality is not bad, when you can hear it. Maybe it would be possible to cut the wire which supplies the revs signal to the FAS?
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 25.08.19 09:02 Edited 25.08.19 09:05
I can’t remember what happens when you cut that wire, but it is covered on here in previous postings. I may take a look, but I do think there was some drawback.

Easier than I thought
http://www.c1forum.co.uk/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?pid=80693;hl=FAS%20cut%20wire

Drawback is that volume is limited if wire is cut. My solution of a three position switch worked fine, as did using a Chinese amp (£15)
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 26.08.19 15:04 Edited 27.08.19 17:55
Hey guys, missing grills seems common even in replacement panels. Where do you pick up spares?

Ok so first ride report..

Loved it!

2 immediate points that came to mind on my 50min trip.

My back was killing me! I'm 6'2 and the raised front of seat doesn't feel like it's helping. I felt most comfortable when not using the back rest and sitting forward a bit (or straight up)

Secondly, the vibrations through the handlebars! My hands were tied not that I think I had a particular strong grip, the vibrations are just so strong threw the bars..

Any fixes on the above points?
Parent - By alunt Date 27.08.19 18:51
You shouldn’t get vibration through the handlebars. Check front tyre and wheel for damage. If it’s at certain speeds get the wheel balanced. After that you could check the front forks for signed of leaking or even remove them and check if they have oil in. They will help to damp vibrations if working properly I guess.
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 29.08.19 11:45
Just got update from Pat (Mobile Mechanic reccomended on here) who is doing my 30k + Valves

--

Exhaust bolts need to be drilled and replaced

Engine bay had to be cleaned before work could get under way.
Extremely dirty and It would have been irresponsible to remove cam cover.

Interrogation of ECU results;

Lambda probe u/s, ABS system not responding - bypassed??

Visible defects:
Top box mounted dangerously loose. A danger to other road users. I would not advise use of the scooter whilst top box is fitted as it currently is.

Wrong spark plug fitted.

Wrong spark plug cap fitted too.

No coolant in expansion bottle,

Rear tyre low on tread - how did this pass an MOT?,

The nearside fork seal is leaking, recommend doing both.

Stand mechanism not working properly. Does not hold front wheel in ‘up’ position,

Nearside seat belt anchor broken
Parent By alunt Date 29.08.19 12:12
Sounds like the sort of bike I’d buy for a renovation project! They all sound like common problems. The coolant loss may take some finding as I’ve found various reasons from chafing pipes, corroded alloy pipe, water pump etc. The top box can be modified to fit securely, so don’t throw it away. Good luck!
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 29.08.19 13:15 Edited 29.08.19 13:19
My comments:
Exhaust bolts need to be drilled and replaced
-I use stud removal tool that grips and removes. Been lucky and have ALWAYS come out in 5 minutes. Worth wd40’ing overnight before removal. S/a replacements on eBay at £5 each iirc

Engine bay had to be cleaned before work could get under way.
Extremely dirty and It would have been irresponsible to remove cam cover.
-sensible precaution.

Interrogation of ECU results;

Lambda probe u/s,
-I have an exhaust with lambda sensor for sale see for sale section

ABS system not responding - bypassed??
-don’t think the abs can be read via the ecu.  The abs has a separate eco. If ABS lights work on dash all is fine.

Visible defects:
Top box mounted dangerously loose. A danger to other road users. I would not advise use of the scooter whilst top box is fitted as it currently is.
-easy hook fix

Wrong spark plug fitted.
-define “wrong”?

Wrong spark plug cap fitted too.
-irrelevant

No coolant in expansion bottle,
-top up bleed system

Rear tyre low on tread - how did this pass an MOT?,
-
The nearside fork seal is leaking, recommend doing both.
-yuck. Yes do both.

Stand mechanism not working properly. Does not hold front wheel in ‘up’ position,
-lubricate properly to fix

Nearside seat belt anchor broken
-Needs new one

How much will it all cost?
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 29.08.19 13:55 Edited 29.08.19 14:58
Thanks guys for your comments.

Ordered a Lambda from eBay (sorry Helmet got your message too late)

The brake hose is buggered so will order one from eBay (another £15)

Helmet re: your comments-

"I presume he will top up bleed system", he said filling the coolant was part of the 30k service (same thing?)

Topbox- it has hooks, i spoke to him to say the previous owner bolted the bottom of the box and has hooks and a bungee so i think it's fine (granted you can push it around a bit)

Is it the same buckle for the Left and Right? Do i have to replace the whole buckle kit (mount and cable)? Looks like it's £48 online unless Helmet you have one for sale?

I am at £410 for service/valves and the exhaust work, waiting on confirmation of fork work but will leave C1 with him till i have these new parts so it can all be taken care of at once (and i can pull some more money together)
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 29.08.19 16:44 Edited 29.08.19 16:53
Here we go...

So here is the latest.

An hour labor to replace the Lambda sensor - £64 (if the used part i ordered works-which he is hesitant about)
3 hours labor to reseal / oil the forks - £204 (VarioBob tells me this is a 1hr 30 job MAX)

My thoughts-

For £204 + Parts (£50?) - isn't it better to upgrade the forks? VarioBob? Any other options?  YSS (£260 for the shock absorber)

I am relieve to be getting the C1 back tomorrow its the last real day i have to ride before i start the new job and resume family commitments
Parent By HelmetHair Date 29.08.19 19:03
Sensor is either 2 minutes (if it comes out easy) or 30minutes (if you have to heat it)
Did he try resetting the error first? This is often thrown if bad connection or engine started without it connected.
Front forks is a nasty job (others may be faster than me!) are the caps solid, or is he replacing (see a recent posting on caps being hammered on. They often split

I’d leave the front “shocks” (the two tubes)  as standard. It is the shock absorbers that can make a difference.

Unless the actual shock is broken, I’d leave it original. Pita job to replace the shock absorber in the lifting mechanism.

Sorry I don’t have a seat belt part. Gave away my last good one.
I’m selling other stuff at the moment-see for sale section.
Pillion seat is rare.

I’d be interested in seeing your total for this. In my experience it’s easy to
Spend £1,000 on a running bike with small
Issues. I do the work myself as a hobby, and have had a few bikes over the years, but am stopping now and concentrating on another project.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 29.08.19 19:06
Make sure you get to keep the bucket shims he takes out when he does your valves. They are £15 each, and can often be reused.
Also, they are yours as you will
Pay for new ones, and it shows that the valves have been done. Frankly I leave them alone unless they actually need doing-but that said I did an engine rebuild with new valve shins and by god the bike drive well after that!
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 02.09.19 18:38
Centre stand has buggered. MobiTech says that's £300 to repair..
Parent - By alunt Date 03.09.19 12:37
I have a couple of used stand mechanisms with shock absorbers in them. Send me a private message if you need one. I live in Manchester so factor in some postage.
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 04.09.19 16:31
Thank you Andrew! Just saw HelmetHair yesterday he says the cable is stretched, to avoid an expensive repair and the fact that many people have this issue and manage I am going to try to figure out how to make it work. He mentioned someone doing a bungee hack? It's a bit tricky pulling the centre stand back in with my feet-not sure if people do it standing to the side?
Parent By aware Date 04.09.19 17:18
I will post my solution tomorrow.
Maybe you will like it.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 05.09.19 08:33
As Luke says, we met up and had a go over of his bike.
It needs some adjustments, but the main issue is with it having been stood.
plenty of lubrication might get the stand handles working, and the weak link(s) were broken-using the levers dragged the cams round against each other, which sometimes enabled the stand to lift, sometimes they wouldn't move far enough though.
Parent - By aware Date 05.09.19 10:32
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BwfojxksXlogeE4PscFVtYWFLrRgqoLM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1C1xFap_csasBAJOp3w24n853gX9XGvD8
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BxeMHu0LyKLM2panH7eKx6HqhFaqxHXc

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948974063.html

This Yoga band lasts for months and retains 99% (exactly!) of its original elasticity as opposed to those luggage elastic straps that lose their elasticiity very quickly.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 05.09.19 11:04
I see-cunning.
I would be wary of having anything that could pull the stand up when you don't want it pulled up-although of course the weight of the bike holds the stand in place.
Luke's stand woudl probably be able to lift and set if it was removed, cleaned and lubricated, then had the weak links replaced or hammered back in (broken stubs removed, and whats left hammered in to replace the stubs). Probably an hour start to finish if the bolts can be undone (would need a breaker bar).

The other issue is the metal flap not engaging. Again, the mech up top could be stripped down and cleaned up (that is, the axle where the flap sits could be removed and rubbed smooth, then oiled and replaced) , and this could probably done without removing the whole mechanism and replacing the whole mechanism (at substantial cost!). Maybe just taking off the centre footwell panel, the front part of the footwell panel, and accessing both hex bolts at each end.

I'd guess two hours for that, mostly fiddly reassembly work with the spring. I'd bet BMW wouldnt do either job, and at £125 per hour this wuold be £400 just to get the stand working.
It was always giong to be BMW prices that killed the C1 off, this is the problem now. All the bikes are around 20 years old and lots need restoration.
Parent By 1ukeinlondon Date 01.10.19 14:31
Thanks everyone. Pat has a nifty solution an attachment to the stand so you can use your feet to kick it out (will post pics)
Parent - By andrew parry Date 01.10.19 18:57
Yes, BMW prices are eye-watering.  I normally do all my own work but I have just acquired a lovely 2008 year F650GS.  Has a service history but first thing I did was change the oil and filter.  It's now telling me it needs a service - probably because it is a year since the last BMW service.  I asked the local dealer about resetting the system.  No.  They would only do that if they completed a service.  They confirmed it would just be an oil change and filter.  £160.  I will now go ahead and buy the interface device and software so I can reset the computer myself (and enjoy looking at all the fault codes etc)
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 02.10.19 07:22 Edited 02.10.19 07:39
Hi all has anyone fitted Oxford Heated Grips to a C1. I am wondering how much labor will be involved I have had them before and they are great (for this time of year)

I plan to get a thermoscu cover for my legs (probably for my birthday) but funds are tight so wondering if I will 'need' both or I can just buy winter gloves
Parent - By alunt Date 02.10.19 18:08
I’ve fitted them a couple of times, they’re more robust than the BMW ones and hotter. The last ones I did were their “scooter” grips which use less power but are still warm enough. You always have to do some sanding of the throttle handle tube and superglue it to the throttle twist on the bike. The glue comes with the grips. Not too difficult but just be aware some modification is needed.
Parent - By Mad_Accountant Date 04.10.19 09:25
I honestly don’t think heated grips are worth the grief, there is some warm air fed up from the rad which passes out to the rider’s hands but you cannot beat a warm pair of gloves. The standard rubber grips last the life of the bike, the OEM heated grips last a few months before splitting or stopping working, often both.
Parent - By HelmetHair Date 04.10.19 09:57

>The standard rubber grips last the life of the bike, the OEM heated grips last a few months before splitting


True, agreed-possibly a couple of years. I used bicycle inner tube to recover my grips, which lasted the same time or longer, and cost nothing to replace (and took seconds-I even left bits of the old grips in place).

>you cannot beat a warm pair of gloves


Yes but no.
I like summer gloves-much more "feel" and flexibility. Combining heated grips and summer gloves worked for me except in the depths of winter...

Heated seat? Never felt one worth a damn.
Parent - By rockstedy Date 04.10.19 11:09
Like my heating pack with summer gloves+leg cover ( ideally with wind kit) are perfect for winter, moreover upgraded MAGURA rubber don’t split: https://www.c1teile-shop.de/service-inspektion/131/original-griffgummis-fuer-heizgriffe-alternative
Parent - By 1ukeinlondon Date 16.10.19 15:42
Hey guys. My C1 is cutting out at a standstill every trip now. It will start right up after but at a traffic light the idle gets weaker and weaker then cuts out. Help?!
Parent By HelmetHair Date 16.10.19 18:58
Hi Luke.
Start a new thread for this.
Search “injector leak” which may help, iirc.
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